Logitech G25 wheel problem



If you have the same problem and the G25/G27 doesn’t calibrate the same way it shown on my video, it is good to check if the encoder wheel is connected to the motor axle..

You need to open the wheel base and you will see on one of the motors there’s a connected black rounded encoder box. open it up carefully and you will see a small black wheel which is supposed to be connected to the motor axle. If the wheel is spinning freely on the axle then the steering wheel can’t calibrate. You will have to put super glue on the motor axle and glue the small black encoder wheel to the motor axle so it will be connected to the axle, and spin together with the axle… I suggest you search info on the internet, in forums for some info before trying to fix it…

I wish you the best of luck and hope you can fix your wheel.
Best regards!

Nguồn: https://livereference.org/

Xem thêm bài viết khác: https://livereference.org/game/

22 thoughts on “Logitech G25 wheel problem

  1. 114/5000
    Did you fix the fault?
    I also have the same problem, could it be a failure caused by the burned Mosfet?
    Please see this documentation: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By0qHn5uc92KRkRBTVYwZ1h4RGc/view
    As soon as I can, I try to disassemble mine by following the guide.

  2. Did you get this fixed? I checked mine and the encoder disc was perfect.. no problem there. no screws seemed to be loose.

    But the motors looked like they had "soot" on them. I never noticed a electrical fire smell though, and its hard to not notice that kind of a smell.

    My steering wheel seems to have the same issue your wheel have, and all buttons and paddles work except the steering part.

  3. Hi, do as a described under the video… It is the best way I can explain. Use google translator if you don't know english so well. I hope you can fix your wheel…

  4. i have the same fucking problem please tell me,,, on a easy way, so i can understand, becouse my english is fucked.,… and. tell how to ficks this bull shit thing 1

  5. The encoder wheel has two sides — one is flat, the other has a ridge. See which side is facing inwards and follow that. I think the flat side is facing the (black) optical reader while the ridged side is facing the (clear) LED. Just make sure you take note of everything as you take it all apart and put it all back the same way. Good luck!

  6. I probably used a little over a dozen light strokes. If you do go over, then you would need glue — normal paper glue will do, depending on how much you've over-filed it. I used Elmer's glue (tacky, I know… but not permanent and easy to clean up!) by putting a little blob and letting it dry for a bit before fitting it. You don't want to fit it while the glue is still fresh — it'll just get all over the shaft and thin out. Also be sure you're putting the encoder in the proper way…

  7. Another warning: Despite filing, it might be _initially_ difficult to push it onto the motor shaft. However, do not keep filing just because it won't go! I kind of messed up one installation when I filed too much. It was hard to get it on but I push a little more and THEN it went on — but was a wee-bit loose after it cleared the tip of the motor shaft, so keep this in mind after your 1st filing!

  8. (continuation): do not apply strong force when fitting, and never handle the wheel by the edges — brass is soft. If you can't get it past the tip of the motor shaft with light force (use your finger to press it in the center), take it off with bent-nose pliers, with the bent tipS resting on the center of the wheel and the apex of the bend resting on the motor — use this as your fulcrum when prying off the wheel. LIGHTLY file again, and then refit. Don't file over 3 light strokes each time.

  9. Can't make it too detailed here coz of the character limit : P But here's what you have to be careful of: be careful when taking off the housing to the optical board — it can crack (see how cheap they are?). Also note which way to put it back.. there's an arrow on one side. After the case is off, unscrew the entire PCB to access the wheel better. No glue is required, but you may have to file it VERY slightly — and I mean VERY slightly. Try fitting it first… (continued)

  10. 2nd hand purchase is when you buy it from a person who bought it before you… Logitech doesn't give warranty if you bought it 2nd hand…

  11. I HAVE A REPLACEMENT! It's made from brass, and will probably last longer than the rest of the system! I got it machined at a laser engraving shop. Email encoder-at-cmlaserservice-dot-com — they are specifically machining these parts now, so if you want a quality part for (well, we'd love to think of it as) a quality wheel, give these guys a call/email.

    You can't fix the wheel itself just by glue if the wheel itself if cracked. The crack will create a gap that throws the centering off.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *